Hiking in Maine

From mid-May to mid-October, Hermit Island is accessible only to registered campers using Hermit Island Campground, and pets are not allowed. In the winter months, however, the trails and beaches on this beautiful island are open for day-use to respectful visitors who clean up after themselves and their dogs (no winter facilities are available). An added winter bonus appears to be the absence of mosquitoes and flies, which appear to be fairly aggressive in the summertime, based upon comments. We explored this quiet space on a chilly but sunny Black Friday, navigating using the AllTrails app, and a printed version of the campsite map on the Hermit Island Campground site.

We hiked using the campground roads and trails for a moderate clockwise loop that was about 3.8 miles, taking about an hour and a half. Parking is available at the Kelp Shed at Hermit Island Campground, reached by crossing the rutted sand causeway behind Head Beach, effectively at the end of Route 216 in Phippsburg. A quick duck under a gate, and head uphill past a massive anchor at the campground entrance. Almost immediately, a walkway leads to the left, opening upon Head Beach. The camp roads are wide and flat, easy for walking, and bounded by grasses and ornamental berries, with fresh deer prints crossing at intervals.

We took Lee Side Way to Dune Way to West Dune Way to Western Reach, taking side paths to the ocean at Sand Dune Beach, a wide sandy strand looking out at Gooseberry Island. Here, in the grasses lining the path, we saw a female red-winged blackbird singing, speckled brown and very different from her male counterpart. We passed tree-lined Lily Pond, then headed uphill, passing campsites that overlooked Sunset Lagoon and the ocean beyond from rocky heights.

We followed the signs toward Hiking Trails, and left the road to follow the red trail toward the water. The red trail, and then the combined red/blue trail, traced the coast, with some steep switchbacks and narrow passes. The views from the trail were outstanding along this rugged path, and we only had to share them with gulls and other seabirds. The rock formation named “Worumbo” was impressive, a view of the sea through a dramatic cove made by a gap in the cliffs. At Spring Beach, small waterfalls sluiced off the rocks overlooking the beach, as rain-fed brooks cascaded to the ocean past twisted cedars.

Finally, at Spring Beach, we turned inland to take the Island Road uphill back toward the start to complete the loop in the fading afternoon light. We could still see the sheltered waters of The Branch and Small Point Harbor below us, check out the campsites on the east side of the island, and watch a great blue heron unfold and fly above us toward the open ocean side of the island. Shortly, we were back at our vehicle by the Kelp Shed. Winter in the summer resorts of the Midcoast can mean reduced options, but this allowed us to enjoy a classic, with great veggie pizza and local brews at The Cabin in Bath (cash/check only), right across from the shipyard at Bath Iron Works.