Bonyun Preserve (Westport Island, ME)

Wooden bridge on east side of Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Bonyun Preserve in Westport Island, Maine, is owned and maintained by the Kennebec Estuary Land Trust (KELT), which has a printable map and description of Bonyun Preserve on its website, as well as in a container at the trailhead kiosk. The Preserve, free to the public, and open daily from dawn to dusk, is named for the landowners who donated the 74 acres of land to KELT in 2002. Dogs are not allowed (eight other KELT properties allow leashed dogs). In mid-September, we used the Thomas Point, Mill Cove, Junction, and Junction Loop trails to make a double lollipop loop of about 4.5 miles, which took us about two and a quarter hours. I navigated using the AllTrails app and the description received from Falcon Guides’ Hiking Maine.

View from Thomas Point, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

A small parking area is located off lower West Shore Road in Westport Island. The trail begins with a wide, flat pine-needle surface, heading downhill to the intersection of the Junction Trail and the Mill Cove and Thomas Cove trails, then splits north, moving around the shore of slow, muddy Mill Cove. The trail then divides into a loop heading south to Mill Cove, and the other side of the loop heading west, then south as it traces Thomas Cove enroute to Thomas Point and the wide Sasanoa River. We took the trail outward in this counterclockwise direction, crossing the narrow peninsula through tall hemlock trees.

Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Birds were everywhere, and we heard the scratchy whoosh of winged flight nearby, made by a massive bald eagle leaving a nearby tree and heading across the bay. We saw great blue herons, downy woodpeckers, belted kingfisher, hermit thrush, dark-eyed junco, gulls, and cormorants, and heard blue-headed vireo, red squirrels, and chipmunks. The views along this stretch of the trail were incredible, with sun piercing between tall, straight evergreens, brightly-colored seaweed, twisted cedar trees, and light reflected off the tidal blue-green Sasanoa River as it moves toward the Sheepscot River and the sea.

Sasanoa River from end of Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

We stopped to recline on the warm rocks at the point at the end of Mill Cove before moving back up the loop. The remains of Heal’s Mill and its mill pond are here, with placards on the trail detailing their history and purpose, primarily turning logs into boards and grinding corn into meal. You can walk across the narrow spit of land dividing the mill pond from the river, and gaze through grasses and wildflowers at fallen stones and old machine parts and wheels, now covered in barnacles and mud.

Heal’s Mill remnants, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Continuing back towards the start, we then turned onto the Junction Trail, where a brief climb leads to an overlook of the mill on the east side of Mill Cove, before crossing Junction Road, and heading through stone walls, past Jewett Cemetery to a hilly forest loop, before returning to the parking area. On this trip, we stopped for lunch aways south, freshly crafted sandwiches at the Winnegance Restaurant and Bakery in Bath. On a later trip, we have since enjoyed the open air tasting room of Sasanoa Brewing (May – Oct, weather-dependent), which is just down West Shore Road from Bonyun Preserve.

Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Whiskeag and Thorne Head Loop (Bath, ME)

Bridge across railroad tracks at Oak Grove Cemetery on Whiskeag Trail, Bath, ME

Thorne Head, the northern portion of Bath extending into the confluence of Whiskeag Creek and the Kennebec River, can be reached by foot from downtown Bath, over a Bath Trails and Kennebec Estuary Land Trust (KELT) network that is surprisingly wild for Midcoast Maine. On the first day of May, I created a 9.4 mile lollipop loop hike incorporating the Whiskeag Trail (see map here), Thorne Head Preserve’s Narrows Trail, Trail Connector, Overlook Trail, Ravine Trail (see map here), and an unmarked, unmaintained path leading back to the Whiskeag Trail, for a little over three hours of forest and water views and birds. All portions of the trails described are open from dawn to dusk, and leashed dogs are allowed. While the word sounds similar to “whiskey,” according to Bath Trails the trail takes its name from an Abenaki word meaning “a creek that runs nearly dry at low tides.” The Whiskeag Trail can be accessed from multiple points, including KELT’s Thorne Head Preserve, Sewall Woods, Oak Grove Cemetery, and McMann Athletic Fields. I chose to depart from the southern terminus, at the Bath YMCA, 305 Centre Street, where there is plenty of parking. The flat, wide pine-covered trail marked with blue blazes starts behind the YMCA and moves over a small ridge, where I heard the welcome morning call of a hermit thrush.

Beaver dam, Whiskeag Creek, on Whiskeag Trail, Bath, ME

Shortly after a marshy area, the Whiskeag Trail emerges at Congress Street at a pedestrian crosswalk by the Edward J McMann outdoor recreation area. The trail skirts the east side of the baseball diamond, then passes back into the woods. Across Old Brunswick Road, the trail curves left through Oak Grove Cemetery, crossing the railroad tracks over an attractive bridge dedicated to John C. “Jack” Hart, Jr. A short distance after the bridge, follow a small blue sign on the left marking the Whiskeag Trail, which winds down to Whiskeag Creek through a series of switchbacks. Bikes are allowed on this trail, and their frequent use can be seen through tracks in the spring mud. Here, the quiet creek was regulated by a sturdy beaver dam, and wider portions gave way to a marsh, where red-winged blackbirds called, and Canada geese sailed lazily away from my footfalls on shore.

Whiskeag Creek, Bath, ME

A mossy cliff and rock face marked the crossing of power lines, and in this gap sat a bench overlooking the creek. The spring return of birds made the Whiskeag marsh an improbably tableau, reminiscent of a children’s picture book, where geese, cormorants, herons, and ducks assembled in groups for identification. As the Whiskeag Creek got closer to mixing with the Kennebec, it grew flatter and wider. By overhanging rocks I noticed a safety feature of the trail, brightly marked alphanumeric emergency cards spaced out along the trail to tell someone in a medical emergency where they are, and how to communicate that quickly to emergency services.

Whiskeag Creek, Bath, ME

The trail then moves back inland through a pine and oak forest, winding across small plank bridges and over and around streams and vernal pools. A brief climb up and across a ridge by power lines takes the trail behind the Bath Public Works, then down and across Oak Grove Avenue. The Whiskeag Trail narrows and moves through a right-of-way next to residential properties, and then along the edge of a large horse farm, before crossing and briefly joining Whiskeag Road. On Whiskeag Road, walk east (right), until reaching the trail again on the left. Here, a large, boisterous pileated woodpecker was at the top of the telephone pole marking the re-entry to the Whiskeag Trail. Shortly after this point is a turn-off to the Sewall Woods parking lot, which you could use to break up this hike into chunks or start from a spot farther north.

Spring flowers on Whiskeag Trail near Sewall Woods, Bath, ME

A series of KELT digital scan signs marked Sewall Woods (see map here), each with facts about the natural surroundings from the Digital Trail Project and natural forestry methods. As I climbed through the more open forest, I saw purple spring flowers, and started hearing the sounds of gulls, signaling the approach to the Kennebec River area. The trail finds Whiskeag Creek again, skirting the water’s edge and muddy flats until a narrow point where you can see the confluence with the Kennebec. I began to hear people and dogs again, as well, as I approached the more-trafficked Thorne Head Preserve.

Whiskeag Creek and Kennebec River confluence from Whiskeag Trail, Bath, ME
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