The Freezeout Trail at Baxter State Park (BSP) starts from the Day-Use Parking at Trout Brook Farm Campground, crossing a sturdy wooden bridge over the brook, which was mobbed by honking Canada geese when I hiked it in mid-September. The Freezeout Trail itself is a long one-way trail (14.4 miles) connecting Trout Brook Farm to the outlet of Webster Lake in Baxter’s Scientific Forest Management Area, and often included as a loop with the Wadleigh Brook and Frost Pond Trails, and/or as a backpacking trip utilizing the campsites along the way.

I navigated using AllTrails, on a route from Hiking Waterfalls Maine that took me to the Grand Pitch of Webster Stream, which the book accurately described as, “a long way from anywhere.” To the waterfalls and back was 12.86 miles, which I did in about four and-a-half hours, with a stop at the falls to cook a chili-mac meal on my JetBoil. The hike is usually described by guidebooks and BSP rangers as very buggy, but the chilly early fall morning made mosquitoes and flies a non-factor on this hike. After the third walk-in Trout Brook Farm tent site, there is a sign-in box for hikers.

The trail was flat and fast, and a beautiful carpet of moss and princess pine lined the path. I had the trail to myself, with the pleasant chirping of birds throughout, and now and then the view of Grand Lake Matagamon to the right of me through the trees. At about one and-a-quarter miles I crossed a bridge over a small bog, passing aster and goldenrod flowers, and disturbed a small brown bird, a least flycatcher or pee-wee.

At a little under 2.5 miles I crossed another bog over a large beaver dam, and saw one of the beavers working about 100 yards away, weaving its way in a slalom between the flooded tree trunks. A side trail at 3.2 miles led to a large pile of sawdust remaining from mill operations, springy underfoot on the shores of Grand Lake Matagamon. I stopped here for a snack on jerky and looked at the waters, while a solitary belted kingfisher plied the shoreline. A drifting loon joined the chorus of bird sound, and then dove under silently.

As I turned up the shore to continue north on the Freezeout Trail, I noticed fairly clear, new bear tracks in the sawdust, and bear scat on the trail. At about 4.2 miles, the Frost Pond Trail came in from the left, and I continued to see the lake through the trees. The trail here was a little wider as I continued towards Webster Stream. At about 5.2 miles I stopped at the Northwest Cove tent site to take a look at the lake where a cormorant was drying its wings on a log extending from the water, then I continued up the Freezeout Trail.

At about 5.7 miles, I turned hard left towards Grand Pitch Falls, which I could already hear through the trees. The trail followed a worn path on the bank above Webster Stream, which moved quickly below. At about 6 miles I took advantage of an overlook to the right to watch the stream flow down towards me and downstream, around an island in the middle.

Shortly thereafter, I veered right on a small trail which rode the rock lip over the river, emerging to the Stream crashing through the canyon with a deafening roar, which was awesome to behold. Just above the wild falls, a large crayfish waited in a quiet pocket of rock.

I prepared myself a freeze-dried chili mac here and sat by the falls for quite awhile, then packed up everything and turned and walked the 6.4 miles back to the trailhead. On the way back across the beaver dam, I noticed a small ramp midway across, covered with mud, and clearly used by the beaver to slide back-and-forth between his properties. This is a truly remote hike – despite covering almost 13 miles, I didn’t see a single person until I got back to the parking area.

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